Best Lens For Horse Racing Photography

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all-time camera and lens’ for Equine photography?


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    chloewindle1

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  • #1
I’ve currently got a Nikon D5100 and nikkor lxx-300mm lens. I’m looking for an upgrade and idea about getting the Nikon D3S but many people take said its overrated. I don’t want to swap to a catechism every bit I’ve already got a few lens’ for Nikon and generally prefer the Nikon camera’due south.

Thanks


Derrel

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  • #2
Yep, the D3s is overrated. Information technology’south heavy, rugged, focuses fast and surely, fifty-fifty in poor light, and has incredible performance at insane ISO levels. It’s got fast-handling, audio ergonomics, a super AF-ON and AE-Lock button system, and almost infinite customizability options. It’s a flagship-level Nikon trunk designed for almost any “action” type outcome. If you were to go to a D3s torso, so you’d accept to put upwards with all the aforementioned ‘issues’. Plus atrocious stuff like a big, brilliant, 100% viewfinder with an incredibly crisp finder epitome, convenient white balance on dedicated buttons on the back of the photographic camera, and tertiary-generation pro-Nikon torso controls and ergonomics. Plus…it also has globe-class shutter response time, and a pretty fast firing rate, and dual CF card storage slots.

All kidding aside…the D3-series Nikon cameras are incredibly nice cameras in terms of HOW they shoot. And they also take one overriding feature: they shoot FAST. When yous meet a shot, y’all press the shutter button, and the camera fires very quickly. Information technology’s a lot similar moving up from an old 4-cylinder econo-box automobile to a luxury performance model…it’s
a whole ‘nother level
of “ride”…

The D3 series as well have that doggone phonation-note recording button and microphone/speaker on the back of the camera…shoot a shot and and so press the button and tape up to a threescore-second .WAV file that is automatically numbered to go with the file that’s displayed on the rear LCD…which is a GODSEND when doing events and needing to go along rails of who and what is in the image files! I use the vox annotation characteristic VERY often.

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  • #3
fab, i’ve been stuck between the D3 and D3s and need a photographic camera that will become the sharp, crisp images. Would you recommend the D3 more than the D3s??

The_Traveler


  • #four
fab, i’ve been stuck between the D3 and D3s and need a camera that will become the sharp, well-baked images.

If you lot aren’t getting sharp crisp images with your current setup, you need to look closer at your technique.
Most whatsoever modern dslr volition produce good images (and the seventy-300 is a fine lens)

gsgary

Been spending a lot of time on here!


  • #5
2003 Canon 10D + 70-200F4

Image00049-XL.jpg

2001 Canon 1D + 300mmF2.8L

Image00202-L.jpg

Any camera volition work, zippo incorrect with the camera you have

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gsgary

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  • #vii

I only have i thing to say, LENSES

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  • #8
fab, i’ve been stuck between the D3 and D3s and need a camera that volition become the sharp, crisp images.

If you aren’t getting precipitous well-baked images with your electric current setup, you lot need to look closer at your technique.
Virtually any modern dslr will produce skilful images (and the 70-300 is a fine lens)

The difference between a $5,000 flagship Nikon and a $600 entry-level Nikon is pretty significant. That’southward why the professionals at Sports Illustrated shoot $five,000, flagship-level, total-frame, professional cameras, not cheap beginner Nikons and Catechism Rebels. That’s why the local newspaper office-fourth dimension pros in my podunk minor town shoot D3s and Canon 1D bodies…

The D3 is an okay photographic camera, and in smaller United states markets at WALK-IN retail, D3 bodies are down to $1700 or so…I am not talking about on-line prices at KEH.com or B&H Photo, I mean in real, small- and mid-sized cities across the United states, a D3 is a $1700 body…

The D3s has a newer, improve sensor.

The idea that a D5100 is the equal to a D3 or D3s when shooting sports or equine action is mis-informed. It is MUCH easier to shoot with a full-frame professional level Nikon than it is a beginner-level crop-body that has a dull mirror, a weak AF system, and a crappy, tiny,low magnification pentamirror finder. I’ve owned the D1, D1h, D2x, and D3x Nikons, too as several lower-spec Canon Nikon and Fuji d-slr cameras; at that place is a very simple reason the D3 and D3s be. Either one is streets ahead of the D5100. The main advantage is that the D3s has a noticeably improve sensor at elevated ISO levels. The pixels are HUGE, and the per-pixel epitome quality of the D3s is fantabulous.

Existence able to Run into the shot, and then hit the release and Go the shot, in-focus, is one of the main pluses of the professional-grade Nikon bodies. A D3 is a nice body. A D3s is the aforementioned body mostly, but with a amend sensor. Purchase whatever you can afford. Either is miles alee of the D5100 in almost every,unmarried metric that really matters in action sports. Of course, the photographer does have to accept at least SOME basics checked off, just the torso really does do most of the “shooting”. Information technology is the focuser, it is the shutter, it is the “moving picture accelerate”, information technology is the buffer, it is the “picture show”…the camera these days is much,much more than than but a light-tight box. The user needs to point the camera in the right direction. Tin can you signal the camera well enough to make use of the D3 or D3s? only 1 way to detect out I suppose.

gsgary

Been spending a lot of time on here!


  • #9
fab, i’ve been stuck between the D3 and D3s and need a photographic camera that will get the sharp, well-baked images.

If y’all aren’t getting precipitous crisp images with your current setup, you need to look closer at your technique.
Virtually whatsoever modernistic dslr will produce skilful images (and the 70-300 is a fine lens)

The difference betwixt a $5,000 flagship Nikon and a $600 entry-level Nikon is pretty significant. That’south why the professionals at Sports Illustrated shoot $5,000, flagship-level, full-frame, professional cameras, not cheap beginner Nikons and Canon Rebels. That’south why the local newspaper part-time pros in my podunk pocket-sized town shoot D3s and Canon 1D bodies…

The D3 is an okay camera, and in smaller Us markets at WALK-IN retail, D3 bodies are downwards to $1700 or so…I am not talking about on-line prices at KEH.com or B&H Photo, I mean in real, small- and mid-sized cities across the USA, a D3 is a $1700 body…

The D3s has a newer, better sensor.

The idea that a D5100 is the equal to a D3 or D3s when shooting sports or equine action is mis-informed. It is MUCH easier to shoot with a full-frame professional level Nikon than it is a beginner-level crop-body that has a tiresome mirror, a weak AF system, and a crappy, tiny,depression magnification pentamirror finder. I’ve owned the D1, D1h, D2x, and D3x Nikons, as well as several lower-spec Canon Nikon and Fuji d-slr cameras; in that location is a very elementary reason the D3 and D3s be. Either one is streets ahead of the D5100. The main advantage is that the D3s has a noticeably better sensor at elevated ISO levels. The pixels are HUGE, and the per-pixel prototype quality of the D3s is excellent.

Existence able to SEE the shot, and so hitting the release and GET the shot, in-focus, is one of the chief pluses of the professional-grade Nikon bodies. A D3 is a overnice body. A D3s is the same trunk mostly, simply with a better sensor. Purchase any you can afford. Either is miles alee of the D5100 in almost every,unmarried metric that really matters in activeness sports. Of course, the photographer does have to take at to the lowest degree SOME basics checked off, merely the body really does do most of the “shooting”. It is the focuser, it is the shutter, it is the “film advance”, it is the buffer, it is the “film”…the camera these days is much,much more than than just a light-tight box. The user needs to signal the camera in the right direction. Can you point the camera well enough to make utilise of the D3 or D3s? only ane way to observe out I suppose.

Just she does non have good lenses

Derrel

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  • #ten
As to the 70-300 being a “fine lens”…uhhhh, yep, and a huge “NO”. The Nikkor 70-300 f/4.5~5.6 VR has a nasty habit of ceasing autofocus during daylight hours….it simply “STOPS” and needs to be “nudged” dorsum into functioning, fairly frequently. I take noticed that many times shooting my kid’south daylight soccer games, too as during casual portrait shooting; Sm4him on TPF has reported this behavior equally well; the same beliefs is noted in the Ken Rockwell review of the 70-300 VR.

I’m not sure why the lxx-300 VR just STOPS FOCUSING so often, simply it is characteristic of the model. It is also very slow…it’southward an f/5.6 lens over much of its zoom range…meaning autofocus is correct on the border of ceasing to office on all the lower-end Nikon bodies. So, something to continue in listen; the f/4.v to f/v.6 max aperture range taxes the lower-end cameras the nigh. Information technology’s a decent lens, and for the money information technology’s good, but the AF stoppage matter makes information technology a dicey lens to rely upon.

The 70-300 VR is not a “expert lens” for activity on a low-spec camera. I use it on the D3x, and during a typical youth soccer match, it will just Cease focusing 10,xv times per event…my 70-200/2.8 will focus until the moon comes upwardly…her lens is SLOW….it’south basically f/5.six…f/5.6is the MINIMUM aperture for AF functioning on a D5100…the blank minimum…

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  • #xi
Hither are a few examples. *delight have note, these were taken a few months ago and aren’t the highest quality as they are just saved off from facebook* View attachment 56777View attachment 56778$1277003_526486967439744_991403212_o.jpg
all photos were taken with D5100 and 70-300. Saving for the 70-200 once upgraded.

gsgary

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  • #12
Buy the lens first you might not want to upgrade yet

Derrel

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  • #thirteen
The 70-300mm is an f/v.3 lens at 200mm. It’s just f/5.vi at 300mm. Shutter speeds are going to exist dangerously boring unless you lot jack the ISO values upward under anything except really GOOD lighting weather condition. One of the principal reasons the D3 and D3s cameras were fabricated as 12MP cameras, and the D4 was fabricated as a 16 MP camera, was to create cameras that had superior imager performance at elevated ISO levels.

If yous want abrupt, clear photos yous need to do a number of things right. Yous tin literally “buy” epitome quality. You can buy a fast, broad-aperture lens, like Gary’s 300mm f/2.8; or you tin buy a $2,400 70-200mm f/ii.8 pro-grade zoom; or y’all tin can buy a used $1700 pro-form body that will shoot at higher ISO values with slower more consumer-oriented lenses.

The choice now is where to put ane’s money? The “best” of the newer high-ISO cameras make an f/5.6 lens into what used to be an “f/1.four lens”, in a manner of speaking. Similarly, $five,000 spent on a 200 f/two VR_Nikkor volition make your D5100 into one heck of a better low-light imager. Information technology’s just easier to shoot well with a loftier-course camera.

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Source: https://www.thephotoforum.com/threads/best-camera-and-lens-for-equine-photography.340724/