The Catechism 7D Marker II is a pop camera for sports and wildlife photography, but it as well comes with a complex and oftentimes confusing bill of fare organization for photographers. To aid guide our readers through these features and menus, we decided to share the settings our squad has been using on the camera during the by 3 months while testing the camera. Please go on in mind that the beneath information is provided as a guide for those that struggle with the camera. While this item configuration has been working great for our needs (mostly based on wildlife and landscape photography), it does not mean that it is the simply fashion to properly setup and configure the photographic camera.
Before going into the 7D II’s photographic camera carte, let’s first become started on the exterior controls. The Canon 7D Marking II has a lot of bill of fare options, but there are some things that you can simply control with the external controls. In add-on, even if menu settings provide options to alter item settings, using external buttons / controls is but faster.
Autofocus, Drive Modes and Metering
The Canon 7D Marker II has a very simple and uncluttered front, with a single programmable button that is by default used for exposure preview. The height of the photographic camera, however, has a number of dual role buttons that get in easy and user-friendly to switch between different photographic camera modes and settings. Here they are, to the right of the flash hotshoe:
Let’south go through each of these 1 by i:
- The starting time dual function button is used for setting upwardly either White Rest or Metering Mode. Press this button once and you tin can use the rotary dial on the back of the camera to toggle between different white balance presets, such as AWB (Auto White Balance), Daylight, Shade, Cloudy, Tungsten Light, White Fluorescent Light, Flash, Custom and Colour Temp in Kelvin. I won’t get over these in detail, every bit y’all can read about these in my What is White Remainder? commodity. You can also modify white balance using the camera menu, as shown below. The second function of the button lets you switch betwixt unlike metering modes by rotating the dial on top of the photographic camera. The metering modes you will see are: Evaluative, Fractional, Center-Weighted Average and Spot. Over again, I won’t go over each mode in detail, as you lot tin read my Camera Metering Modes commodity, where each metering style is covered in particular. If you do non know where to get-go, keep your metering style in the default “Evaluative” way, which is the one that looks like an eye. Metering tin only be set through this button and at that place is no place to modify it in the camera menu.
- The second “DRIVE * AF” push is used for setting different drive and autofocus modes. One time again, you will demand to rotate the rear dial to switch between different drive modes, while the top rotary dial is used to switch between autofocus modes. When you going through the drive modes, you volition see the following options:
– pressing the shutter release button will merely fire one shot. If you continue to hold, nothing will happen.
High-Speed Continuous Shooting
– pressing and property the shutter release button will continuously burn down the camera at a speed of 10 frames per second.
Low-Speed Continuous Shooting
– pressing and holding the shutter release push button will continuously fire the camera at a lower speed of approximately 3 frames per second.
Silent Single Shooting
– similar to the first setting, but the mirror is raised slower for less noise.
Silent Continuous Shooting
– similar to the second setting, but the mirror is raised slower for less noise when firing continuously.
10 second Self-Timer / Remote Control
– afterwards you press the shutter release push button or engage a remote trigger, the camera waits for ten seconds before taking a film.
2 second Self-Timer / Remote Control
– similar as above, except the await time is reduced to 2 seconds.
Since this is a loftier-speed camera for fast activity, I set mine to High-Speed Continuous Shooting when photographing wildlife. When shooting everything else, I set the photographic camera to Silent Single Shooting drive mode.
When toggling between different autofocus (AF) modes, y’all will see the following choices:
– is used only for stationary subjects that do not move. When you one-half-press the shutter push button, autofocus locks on the subject and if the subject moves, the focus volition non change, resulting in a blurry movie. Only use this mode for photographing stationary subjects (landscapes, compages, etc).
– this mode is a combination of both One Shot and AI Servo (below) modes in one setting. The camera evaluates the subject/scene and automatically switches between the above two modes depending on what you are photographing.
– this setting is used for photographing moving subjects. When you half-press the shutter button and your bailiwick moves, the camera will re-acquire focus. I unremarkably keep my camera in AI Servo autofocus mode when photographing people, specially my kids running around.
Again, since I used this camera generally for activity photography, I kept my setting at AI Servo. When switching to shooting everything else, I moved it to AI Focus mode.
The higher up is a quick summary, but if you are looking for detailed information on autofocus modes, meet my DSLR autofocus modes commodity.
- Single Shooting
- The next button is used to dial Flash Exposure Bounty and change ISO. If you lot shoot flash, rotating the rear dial will allow you lot to either increase or decrease wink power. Changing ISO is accomplished with the top dial and you tin can toggle between Auto ISO to regular ISO levels like 100, 200, 400, etc. all the manner to ISO 16,000. Personally, I am a fan of the Car ISO setting, equally it automatically selects the right ISO for me depending on the brightness of the scene. If you are a beginner, I recommend using the Car ISO setting, the behavior of which tin can be fine-tuned in the camera carte (equally explained in detail farther downward below).
- The last push button is used to low-cal up the top LCD of the camera, which can exist useful when photographing in dark.
There is an extra push button called “Chiliad-Fn” on the top of the photographic camera right next to the top dial. By default, this one is set to “FEL” (Flash Exposure Lock), which I personally find to be rather useless on the 7D Marker 2. I went alee and changed mine to “AE lock (hold)” for situations when I need to lock and concur my exposure. This can exist achieved by going to Menu -> Camera Menu v (Camera Icon with dots) -> Custom Controls -> Thou-Fn -> AE lock (concord). The Custom Controls are explained further downward below.
Camera Shooting Mode Dial
On the top left side of the camera you will find a camera shooting way dial (often referred to as the “PASM” dial). I have my dial set to “Av” (Aperture Priority Mode) xc% of the time, because the camera does a great job in giving me expert exposures. Once you get to know the camera better, I would recommend to explore the “C1” – “C3” settings (more than on this below nether
Setup Menu), because they could salvage yous fourth dimension when switching between unlike shooting environments (say when switching between photographing sports / wildlife and landscapes).
Some situations, such equally when photographing panoramas or using off-camera flash phone call for using the Manual (M) style, but I would only recommend to utilize this mode when you get comfortable with the exposure triangle. I personally favor Manual mode when photographing birds to keep my shutter speed the aforementioned, while letting the camera control ISO via Auto ISO.
The Canon 7D Mark Two has a number of buttons on the back of the camera that also serve particular needs. To the acme correct of the photographic camera, you can notice three buttons: AF-ON, AE Lock (Asterisk) and AF Area Mode. The AF-ON push button can be used in conjunction with the Custom Functions (see below) for “back-button AF” that y’all tin employ for the focusing and recomposing.
The AE Lock push button is used to lock the exposure, which can be useful for keeping the exposure consistent between shots or when using the higher up-mentioned focus and recompose technique.
The concluding AF Area Mode button is used for selecting a item focus signal. When you press this push once, the top LCD will brandish “SEL [ ]”, which allows switching between different focus points in the viewfinder, or switching to dynamic focusing / automatic selection (with all focus points activated). If y’all expect through the viewfinder and rotate the rear dial, you will see the focus points go vertically from top to lesser and vice versa. If you rotate the top dial, the focus points will switch horizontally from left to correct and vice versa. Personally, I practice not like the fact that I have to press a button to activate focus points, so I always use the multi-controller instead, every bit explained in detail below.
There is i more button on the back of the photographic camera that can be quite handy for making quick adjustments to the camera and that’s the “Q” button that is located to the right of the magnifying glass and playback buttons. I love this push, because it serves as a shortcut to get to the most important settings without having to dig through the many menu items. Information technology gives you admission to the exposure triangle, exposure and flash exposure bounty, custom controls, film styles, white balance + white residue shift, auto lighting optimizer, AF operation, metering fashion, bulldoze mode and image size / quality settings. Then this button is a great shortcut to seeing a summary of all settings on the camera that are currently practical. From here, you tin can override the top buttons easily by just using the multi-controller on the back of the camera.
Let’s get through the camera Menu settings now.
Shoot Menu 1
Here are the settings I utilise for Camera Menu 1, with explanations:
- Image Quality: RAW – I ever recommend to shoot in RAW format. Equally explained in my RAW versus JPEG article, there is a huge difference between RAW and JPEG. With RAW, y’all besides do not have to worry nearly other camera settings such as picture styles, white balance and lighting optimizer, because you tin alter those in post-processing.
- Image review: 2 sec – I exit this at 2 seconds. After you lot take an paradigm, it will exist shown on the rear LCD for 2 seconds. If yous desire to preserve the bombardment life, y’all tin can plow this off as well.
- Beep: Disable – leave this disabled, since the camera will beep every time focus is achieved, which is annoying.
- Release shutter without carte: OFF – you practise not want the photographic camera to fire without a retentiveness carte du jour, in instance yous forget to insert one.
- Lens aberration correction: I disable all corrections, considering they but utilise to JPEG images. If yous are a JPEG shooter, leaving these on volition reduce vignetting, chromatic abnormality and distortion issues in your images.
- Peripheral illumin.: Disable
- Chromatic aberration: Disable
- Distortion: Disable
- Flash control: Only applies when you photograph with flash
- Flash firing: Enable
- E-TTL II meter.: Evaluative
- Wink sync. speed in Av mode: AUTO
- Born flash settings
- Wink mode: East-TTL II
- Shutter sync.: 1st mantle
- exp. comp.: 0
- Wireless func.: Disable
- External flash func. setting: Disabled, works with external flash merely
- External flash func. setting: Disabled, works with external flash only
Shoot Menu 2
- Expo.comp./AEB: 0 – this is for setting exposure bounty or exposure bracketing. I would not carp with setting exposure compensation through the menu, since you can do it much quicker with the large rotary dial on the back of the camera
- ISO speed settings:
- ISO speed: Motorcar – as explained before, I similar to use the Car ISO feature, since I do not take to worry about the exposure.
- ISO speed range: 100-16000 – this setting affects what you lot are able to meet when irresolute ISO through the ISO button or through the Quick menu. I desire to keep the unabridged range for ISO selection, and so I leave it at 100-16000 range.
- Car ISO range: 100-3200 – now this setting is particularly useful when shooting in “Auto ISO” mode. I am not comfy with noise higher up ISO 3200 on the 7D Mark Ii, so I keep the maximum range express to ISO 3200. In some situations, I might button my maximum limit to 6400.
- Min. shutter spd.: Motorcar – with the “Car” setting, the camera volition automatically adapt the shutter speed of the camera to the reciprocal rule appropriate for its APS-C sensor. For steady easily and good posture, this might be sufficient. Even so, if you have shaky easily, so the default “Auto” setting might not do justice to go along you away from camera shake. If y’all detect blur in your images, you can movement the slider under “Car” to the right towards “Faster” with the pinnacle dial, which volition use a twice faster shutter speed by default. For case, if at 35mm focal length you are getting 1/50 shutter speed, moving to Auto(1) will speed upwards the shutter speed to 1/100. This particular feature was something that Catechism was missing when compared to Nikon, then I am really glad that Canon included information technology in the 7D Marker Ii. Now Canon’s Auto ISO fully matches Nikon’s Auto ISO capabilities!
- Car Lighting Optimizer: OFF – ALO settings are but applicable to JPEG images and I usually keep them turned off.
- White balance: AWB – But similar ALO, white balance setting also does not matter, as you can adjust it afterward in post-processing.
- Custom White Balance – unless you want to set custom white remainder with a gray bill of fare, skip this setting.
- WB Shift/Bkt.: 0,0/±0 – don’t mess with this unless you know what you are doing.
- Color space: Adobe RGB – although colour space does not affair for RAW images, Adobe RGB gives a slightly more accurate histogram to determine the correct exposure (since the camera shows histogram based on camera-rendered JPEG epitome, even if yous shoot exclusively in RAW).
Shoot Menu 3
- Picture Mode: Standard – does non matter for shooting RAW images. I set mine to “Standard” and use the Standard camera profile in Lightroom for consistency. For more details nigh this, check out my article “how to get accurate Canon colors.”
- Long exp. racket reduction: OFF – I leave this off, simply you might want to plow it on if you are planning to shoot very long exposures such as when doing astrophotography.
- High ISO speed NR: OFF – another one I leave off, as it merely affects JPEG images.
- Highlight tone priority: OFF – unlike Auto Lighting Optimizer (ALO), Highlight tone priority does affect RAW data, since information technology actually underexposes an paradigm to recover highlights. Unless you shoot JPEG, instead of letting the camera underexpose images with HTP to go along highlight details, I would recommend to properly betrayal images and even slightly over-betrayal, then recover the information in mail service. This technique is known as “Exposing to the right” and it gives you lot better results, peculiarly when dealing with noise.
- Dust Delete Data – this is used for removing grit in images if you have grit particles on the image sensor. I never apply this feature, since I prefer cleaning the photographic camera sensor instead.
- Multiple exposure: Disable – this is used for creative photography when stacking photos on tiptop of each other.
- HDR Way: Disable HDR – merely relevant when shooting in JPEG manner.
Shoot Menu 4
- Cherry-eye reduc.: Disable – only relevant when shooting wink.
- Interval timer: Disable – born intervalometer for shooting timelapse sequences. Sadly, y’all can simply specify upwards to 99 shots, only if yous leave it at 00, the camera volition take photographs indefinitely.
- Bulb timer: Disable – disabled in all normal modes, and then you can but activate it when y’all select “B” from the PASM punch. At present this is a killer feature and something that I wish every photographic camera had. Many DSLRs are normally limited to 30 second exposures – annihilation longer requires a remote camera shutter release accessory that has the capability to concur exposure for longer than thirty seconds. The Catechism 7D Mark II has a congenital-in mode to set a specific timer in bulb mode, so you do not need any remote shutter release to be able to shoot for longer than 30 seconds. This is particularly useful when doing long exposure photography and when working with neutral density filters.
- Anti-flicker shoot.: Disable – if you shoot in bogus light covering sports or other events, this is another killer feature that can really help in obtaining images that are properly exposed acme to bottom. Every bit described in our light flickering article, shooting indoors can exist quite challenging. Once you lot turn this feature on, the camera will automatically delay the shutter to match the light frequency, as detailed in this article.
- Mirror lockup: OFF – unless you want to reduce vibrations from the photographic camera when the mirror is raised (when shooting at very low shutter speeds on a tripod), get out this turned off. When mirror lockup is on, pressing the shutter release or firing the camera with a remote will enhance the mirror and the second fourth dimension yous trigger the shutter volition start the exposure, then lower the mirror at the end of the exposure.
Shoot Menu five and 6: Live View Functions
Alive View settings practise not affect images, so I usually leave them at default settings.
Movie Bill of fare four and 5
If you have the Live View switch on the back of the camera to “Movie” mode (red photographic camera), instead of the above Alive View menus you will see 2 motion picture menus instead of Live View. I don’t shoot video, so these are as well set to default settings.
Autofocus Menu one (AF Config. Tool)
The Canon 7D Mark II sports a high-end, complex autofocus system that can be fine-tuned for practically any situation. Since the goal of this article is to provide recommended settings and not particularly focus on what each camera feature does, I am not going to spend a lot of fourth dimension explaining why I chose a particular setting. The beneath autofocus settings are provided as a guidance to what worked well for me when photographing birds, so your mileage might vary. My recommendation would be to read Chapter iii in the camera transmission to understand what each autofocus setting does in particular.
In menu 1 of Autofocus, you will find vi Cases or “templates” to employ for different situations. These cases are basically 6 different combinations of three settings: “Tracking sensitivity”, “Acceleration/deceleration tracking” and “AF point auto switching”:
- Case ane: For subjects that alter speed and move erratically – I establish this one to be the optimal default setting for bird photography.
- Example two: Continue to runway subjects, ignoring possible obstacles – if you need to actively track a bird in flight while ignoring copse and other objects in the scene.
- Case 3: Instantly focus on subjects all of a sudden entering AF points – if there are many birds in the frame and you lot want to focus on the closest one.
- Example 4: For subjects that accelerate or decelerate quickly – when camera to subject altitude changes fast, such as a bird flying towards you.
- Case v: For erratic subjects moving chop-chop in any direction – if a bird is perched and you are anticipating information technology to fly off.
- Instance 6: For subjects that change speed and motility erratically – suitable for photographing smaller birds that fly erratically, or for photographing birds diving / fighting in air
Although these cases can be very useful in different situations, it is probably best to stick to Case ane as the default setting.
The overnice affair about the in a higher place cases, is that you can actually fine melody each one of them to conform your needs by modifying the three setting parameters.
Autofocus Menu ii (AI Servo)
In the 2d menu you volition find simply two settings relevant to AI Servo mode:
- AI Servo 1st image priority: Focus Priority – I fix mine to focus priority for the 1st image, considering I practise non want the camera to start shooting if the subject area is not in focus. This might exist annoying to utilize in sure situations though, particularly when the subject field is very erratic and the photographic camera struggles with autofocus acquisition. Past default, information technology is prepare to “Equal Priority”.
- AI Servo 2nd prototype priority: Equal Priority – once focus is locked and the camera is already shooting and actively tracking the bailiwick, I desire to give equal priority to focusing and releasing.
Autofocus Bill of fare three (I Shot)
In that location are thee settings in the AF menu 3, which are relevant to One Shot way:
- Lens electronic MF: Enable after 1-Shot AF – enables using the transmission focus ring after focus is already obtained
- AF-assistance beam firing: ON – allow the use of the AF assistance axle in front of the camera when shooting in low light situations
- One-Shot AF release prior.: Focus priority – do non allow the camera to fire if the focus is not achieved in Ane Shot mode
Autofocus Menu 4
The side by side two menus take a lot of different options, some of which are useful and important:
- Lens drive when AF impossible: Go on focus search – if focus cannot be achieved, the camera tin can continue searching or stop. I prefer to allow the camera continue to search.
- Selectable AF indicate: 65 points – you want to be able to switch between all 65 focus points.
- Select AF area selec. mode: everything checked – I want to be able to toggle between all AF area modes.
- AF area selection method: M-Fn button – the M-Fn button that I previously programmed to AE Lock tin can be used in combination with the focus AF Area Way button to toggle between dissimilar AF expanse modes.
- Orientation linked AF point: Separate AF pts: Pt just – I beloved this feature, equally it volition remember what focus point I prepare when shooting vertical vs horizontal images. I gear up mine to only call up the focus point.
- Initial AFpt, AI Servo AF: AUTO – go out this ane on Car.
- Auto AF pt sel.: EOS iTR AF: ON – go out this one ON.
Autofocus Menu 5
The concluding Autofocus Menu has 5 options:
- Manual AF pt. selec. pattern: Stops at AF area edges – I do non similar when AF points automatically move over to the other side when I am close to the edge.
- AF bespeak display during focus: All (constant) – I prefer seeing all focus points, non just the selected one in the viewfinder.
- VF display illumination: AUTO – let the camera make up one’s mind when to illuminate the focus points in blood-red inside the viewfinder.
- AF status in viewfinder: Show in field of view – shows “AF” in the field of view when autofocus is active.
- AF Microadjustment: Disable – unless you lot want to specifically accommodate phase detection autofocus, practice not touch this setting. If y’all want to make AF adjustments, read my detailed article on calibrating lenses.
Playback Carte one and 2
Playback menus are used for altering images after they are captured. I normally exercise not mess with these and leave the settings in Menu 1 and 2 at default. The only setting I do change is in Playback Card 2 – Image jump with rotary dial. I personally do not like the fact that the images leap by 10 by default when rotating the top punch, and so I set it to “Brandish images 1 by one” instead. This fashion, whether I turn the top or the rear dials, both volition display images ane by one without skipping.
Playback Menu iii
The playback card 3 has some important settings that I ofttimes use:
- Highlight alarm: Enable – this volition show the “blinkies” when there is overexposure / loss of highlight data.
- AF betoken disp. Enable – when displaying images, I want to see where the focus point was.
- Playback grid: Off – it is nice to come across a grid in the viewfinder, just I don’t want to see it afterward the prototype is captured.
- Histogram disp: Brightness – if you desire to meet a histogram for each color channel, pick RGB.
- Movie play count: Rec time.
- Magnificatn (apx): Bodily size – this allows me to see 100% ingather when I printing the magnification button when playing back images.
- Ctrl over HDMI: Disable.
Setup Bill of fare ane
- Record func+card/folder sel.
- Record func.: Car switch card – once the get-go card fills up, it volition overflow to the 2nd one.
- Record/play: i – yous can select which menu to showtime recording images first.
- Folder: 100EOS7D – you can utilise an existing folder or create a new one where photos will exist stored.
- File numbering: Continuous – I desire the camera to increment file numbers even if I change the memory menu.
- File name: IMG_ – y’all can prepare how you want files to be named.
- Auto rotate: On (heart setting) – rotating vertical images in landscape view makes them appear much smaller. I prefer the camera to write the orientation to images, just not actually rotate them when displaying.
- Format card – used for formatting the inserted memory card.
Setup Menu 2
- Auto power off: 1 min – I get out it at ane minute to turn off the photographic camera when information technology is non in use.
- LCD brightness: Auto – centre selection is expert, although you might want to increment or decrease brightness depending on shooting conditions.
- Appointment/Time/Zone: brand sure to keep the appointment and time zone settings authentic.
- Linguistic communication: English language
- Viewfinder brandish
- Viewfinder level: Show – cool feature, allows seeing level right inside the viewfinder.
- VF grid display: Enable – I use the grid for framing and alignment.
- Show/hibernate in viewfinder: Everything turned off – the viewfinder is already pretty cluttered with data, and then I usually do not desire to add more.
- GPS/digital compass settings: Disable – I enable GPS when traveling and plow information technology off if I need to preserve bombardment life. Information technology is a neat feature that I wish all other cameras had!
Setup Menu iii
- Video organisation: For NTSC.
- Battery info.: Shows battery level and life.
- Sensor cleaning:
- Auto cleaning: Enable – the photographic camera will shake off dust when turned on or off.
- Clean now – to clean the sensor now.
- Clean manually – this is different than the above options, since it is used for manually cleaning the sensor. The mirror will lock up and you can proceed to cleaning the sensor.
- INFO button display options: All checked – good for looking at important camera settings and the level works pretty well for shooting on a tripod.
- RATE tn function: Rating – controls the RATE button function. Can be set to Rating or Protect.
- HDMI frame charge per unit: Automobile.
Setup Menu 4
- Custom shooting fashion (C1-C3) – at that place are three setting banks on the shooting mode dial. In one case you set appropriate settings for a given scenario, you can salvage them in these two modes.
- Register settings – this volition allow to save your current settings to C1, C2 or C3 shooting mode. Once saved, all you have to practice is switch to the appropriate mode and the settings volition exist retrieved. I had mine set to three different scenarios – i for sports/wildlife, one for landscapes and one for people. For C1 (sports/wildlife), I have Machine ISO turned on, Exposure mode set to Transmission, Drive fix to Continuous High, AF mode set to AI Servo, AF point selection set to Surroundings (8 points around the center). For C2 (landscapes), I take Auto ISO turned off, ISO 100, Exposure mode ready to Transmission (Yard), Drive set to Silent Single Shooting, AF mode set to One Shot, AF bespeak selection set to Spot AF. For C3 (people), I keep Car ISO on, Exposure way set to Aperture Priority (Av), Drive set up to Silent Single Shooting, AF mode set to AI Focus, AF bespeak pick set to Spot AF.
- Clear settings – used to clear the above-mentioned modes and revert to defaults.
- Auto update set.: Disable – I exercise not desire the camera to automatically save adjustments in C1-C3 modes. This way, if I change a setting, it is just a temporary change. If I need to make a permanent change, I become to “Register settings” carte higher up.
- Clear all camera settings – this will reset everything on the camera and revert to mill defaults.
- Copyright data – I always put my proper name and copyright details when I first setup the photographic camera.
- Certification Logo Display – displays certification logos.
- Camera firmware ver. – displays current camera firmware.
Custom Functions I: Exposure
Custom Functions menu is used to fine melody the many parameters of the camera. Some of them are very important and should not be messed with, while others brand it easier to employ the camera. Permit’s go through each one of them, 1 by ane.
- Exposure level increments: 1/three stop – this will allow adjusting the exposure in ane/3 or 1/2 increments. I prefer 1/3 increments.
- ISO speed setting increments: 1/iii terminate – same here for ISO.
- Bracketing automobile cancel: On – if y’all turn bracketing on, the setting will not be permanent – it will turn itself off when yous turn off the camera.
- Bracketing sequence: -, 0, + – I prefer bracketing in this order.
- Number of bracketed shots: three shots – depends on how you lot bracket. I commonly go between 3 and v shots.
- Safety shift: OFF – used when the camera maxes out in Discontinuity Priority (Av) or Shutter Priority (Telly) modes. For example, if the exposure is also vivid and the camera is also maxed out at ane/4000 shutter speed, with this setting turned on the photographic camera will stop down the aperture to balance out the exposure.
- Same expo. for new aperture: OFF.
Custom Functions II: Exposure/Drive
- Set shutter speed range: 8000, 30″ – leave at default
- Set aperture range: 91, ane.0 – leave at default
- Continuous shooting speed: ten, iii, iv – leave at default
Custom Functions III: Display/Operation
- Focusing Screen: Eh-A – default, only applicable if y’all are using an optional focusing screen.
- Warnings ! in viewfinder: When monochrome fix, When WB is corrected, When i-touch img qual gear up, When NR is set – shows an exclamation marker in the viewfinder if these conditions are met.
- LV shooting surface area display: Masked
- Dial direction during Tv/Av: Normal – I leave this at normal, but if you want to flip the direction of dials, yous can set up it to “Reverse direction”.
- Multi function lock: Quick Control Dial – this controls what gets locked when the Lock switch on the back of the camera is used. I get out this on the default Quick Control dial.
- Custom Controls – this is ane of the most of import menus in the camera, as it allows customizing function push behavior. Allow’s go through each i past one:
- Shutter Release: AE Lock – if you want to switch to back-button focusing / focus and recompose technique, then change this to either “Metering start” or “AE lock”. I keep mine at AE lock to only lock the exposure when I half-printing the shutter release. To focus, employ the AF-ON button on the dorsum of the camera.
- AF-ON push button: Metering and AF offset – I want to use the rear AF-ON button to focus, so I keep it at this setting.
- AE Lock button: AE lock – yous can change the behavior of the AE Lock (Asterisk) push every bit well. Some people prefer to have the AE lock button serve as the AF-ON button. You can practise that by irresolute the mode to “Metering and AF outset”.
- DOF preview button: Depth-of-field preview – I don’t particularly apply this push, so I leave it at its default setting.
- Lens AF terminate push: AF stop – controls the beliefs of the lens AF end push button.
- Multi-function push button (1000-Fn): AE lock (hold). Equally explained eariler, I use the M-Fn button to hold exposure.
- Prepare push button: OFF – I just want to use the center “Set” button to make changes and admission menu items, so I leave information technology off. Some people like to alter it to “Menu” for accessing the menu, but I don’t mind pressing the Card push button to the left of the viewfinder.
- Main Punch: Aperture setting in M mode – yous can control the behavior of the main dial on the top of the photographic camera in Manual style to either change the Shutter speed (default) or Aperture. I adopt the top dial to change aperture and the rear dial to modify the shutter speed. Information technology is a personal preference though!
- Quick Control Dial: Shutter Speed setting in M style – with the higher up change, yous demand to set this ane to control the shutter speed.
- Multi-controller: AF point direct selection – another very important setting for me. If you keep the default setting (OFF), you volition not be able to make quick adjustments to focus points by using the multi-controller on the dorsum. With AF point directly option enabled, you simply press whatever side of the multi-controller and the focus point volition immediately move there. Very useful, something that should have been the default!
- AF area select lever: Direct AF area selection – with the multi-controller assuasive to select focus points, it makes perfect sense to employ the AF expanse lever to toggle betwixt different AF areas. With this enabled, I can chop-chop choose between different AF areas by pushing the lever downwards.
I hope you lot found this article useful. Once again, these are settings that piece of work for me and they might not necessarily suit your needs. Information technology is best that yous explore your camera and larn about each setting as much every bit y’all tin can in order to take reward of all the available features and customizations!