My Nikon D750 Is Not Focusing

By | 11/08/2022

The Nikon D750 is an advanced camera with many different menus and settings, and it can be overwhelming for a lot of photographers at kickoff. So, in this article, I want to explain all the photographic camera settings on the Nikon D750 and provide some recommendations for how to prepare your photographic camera properly. Please do continue in listen that while these settings piece of work for me, it does non mean that everyone else should be shooting with exactly the same settings. The beneath data is provided equally a guide for those that merely want to become started with a basic understanding of the photographic camera and its many features.

Nikon D750

Before going into the photographic camera menu, let’southward start become started on the exterior controls. The D750 has a lot of carte du jour options, but there are some things that y’all tin can just command with external controls.

Autofocus Modes, Bracketing and Flash

On the front end left of the camera, you will find a lever that goes from AF to M, with a button in the middle (large reddish circumvolve in the paradigm beneath). Brand certain to keep that lever on “AF”, or your lens will not autofocus. If for some reason your lens stops focusing, this is what need to check first. Pressing the button in the middle of the lever allows to choose between different focus modes.

Nikon D750 Front Buttons

To activate this change, you need to press and concur the push, then rotate the rear dial with your thumb. As yous do this, look at the top LCD and the camera will switch betwixt AF-A, AF-S and AF-C. I won’t go into too much particular well-nigh each focus way, since information technology is all explained in item in this article that I wrote a while agone. Hither is a quick recap:

  1. AF-S
    – this mode is called “Single-servo AF” and it is used only for stationary subjects that do not move. When you half-press the shutter button, autofocus lock on the subject and if the subject moves, the focus will not modify, resulting in a blurry picture. Only employ this way for photographing stationary subjects (landscapes, compages, etc).
  2. AF-C
    – known equally “Continuous-servo AF” in Nikon’s lingo, this setting is used for photographing moving subjects. When you half-press the shutter button and your subject moves, the camera will re-acquire focus. I normally keep my camera in AF-C autofocus style when photographing people, especially my kids running effectually.
  3. AF-A
    – this mode is simply present on lower-finish cameras to brand information technology easier for beginners. Basically, information technology is a combination of the above two modes in one setting. The photographic camera evaluates the subject/scene and automatically switches between the to a higher place ii modes depending on what you are photographing.

If you don’t know where to start, keep the setting on AF-A, which will let the camera decide on how to focus in different situations.

At present if yous rotate the forepart punch with your alphabetize finger while property the same push, yous will get many different options like “S”, “D nine”, “D 21”, “D 51”, “3D”, “Grp” and “Aut”. These settings are in that location for controlling the focus points that you meet within the viewfinder. Once again, most of these are already explained in item in my autofocus modes explained article, so I won’t go into also much detail here. If you don’t know where to showtime, keep information technology on “S” (Single), which lets you choose one single focus point that the camera will use for focusing. Let’south move on to other external controls.

Right above the AF / M lever, you will find two additional buttons: the Wink button, which allows you to fine-tune flash compensation and set up other flash parameters like front end/rear flash sync, and the BKT (Bracketing) button to set up bracketing on the camera. Flash settings don’t really matter, just for at present just make sure that everything is turned off and shows “0.0” when you lot press and hold information technology. Similarly, make sure that bracketing is also turned off past holding the button and checking the rear LCD. It should show “0F” on the left side, which means that bracketing is turned off (the “BKT” messages should also disappear). Using the front dial will permit changing bracketing steps and the rear punch volition change the number of frames shot in a bracketing sequence. The D750 allows bracketing up to 9 frames and up to 3 stops (EV) apart.

Shooting Mode and Photographic camera Mode Dials

On the pinnacle left side of the camera you volition notice a double punch – the peak portion allows switching betwixt unlike camera modes (often referred to equally the “PASM” dial), while the lesser part allows switching betwixt different shooting modes. I have my top dial fix to “A” (Aperture Priority Way) 90% of the fourth dimension, because the photographic camera does a keen chore in giving me good exposures. Once y’all get to know the camera better, I would recommend to explore the “U1” / “U2” settings (more on this beneath under
Setup Menu), because they could save you time when switching betwixt different shooting environments (say when switching betwixt photographing landscapes to running kids).

Nikon D750 PASM Mode Dial

The lower dial has a bunch of shooting modes like “S” (Unmarried), “Cl, Ch” (Continuous low and Continuous Loftier), “Q” (Quiet), “Qc” (Placidity Continuous), Timer and Mup (Mirror lock-up). Mine is ordinarily gear up to “S” which only fires a single shot when I press the shutter release push. If I desire the photographic camera to fire multiple shots when shooting activeness, I switch to “Ch”. I rarely apply other settings, but those can be useful every bit well, particularly the timer feature that I employ when shooting landscapes to reduce vibrations (more on this below).

Aside from the above, don’t worry well-nigh any other buttons on the camera. Now let’s move to the photographic camera settings carte.

Playback Menu

I rarely ever touch anything in the Playback carte, since that’southward only used for displaying pictures on the rear LCD. The simply two settings that I ever mess with are “Playback brandish options” and “Rotate alpine”. The “Playback display options” can be useful when reviewing images. When you lot printing the playback push on the back of the camera, you can printing up/down buttons and you will be able to see different types of information. To proceed the clutter out, I take three things turned on: “Focus point”, which allows me to run into where I focused, “Highlights” to show overexposure in shots (a.k.a. “blinkies”) and “Overview”, which gives me a summary of my exposure (shutter speed, aperture, ISO, focal length, etc). I always turn the “Rotate alpine” setting off, considering I do not want my camera to change vertical images to horizontal when I review them – it is much easier to rotate the photographic camera to see a vertical image, rather than having to zoom in every single time. Everything else is default.

Photograph Shooting Menu

Let’s now get through the Photo Shooting Bill of fare, which is the first place that I usually go to when checking my settings. I volition start provide my values, then talk nigh the important settings:

  • Reset photo shooting menu: —
  • Storage binder: default, don’t change
  • File naming: DSC (default), don’t modify
  • Role played by card in Slot two: Overflow
  • Image quality: NEF (RAW)
  • Paradigm size: grayed out
  • Image area
    • Cull image expanse: FX
    • Machine DX crop: ON
  • JPEG compression: Optimal quality
  • NEF (RAW) recording:
    • Type: Lossless compressed
    • NEF (RAW) bit depth: 14-scrap
  • White balance: AUTO (AUTO1 Normal)
  • Set Picture Control: SD (Standard), Default values
  • Manage Film Control: —
  • Color space: Adobe RGB
  • Active D-Lighting: OFF
  • HDR (loftier dynamic range): OFF (grayed out)
  • Vignette control: OFF
  • Auto distortion command: OFF
  • Long Exposure NR: OFF
  • Loftier ISO NR: OFF
  • ISO sensitivity settings
    • ISO sensitivity: 100
    • Auto ISO sensitivity control: ON
      • Maximum sensitivity: 6400
      • Minimum shutter speed: Auto -> Middle of the scale
  • Remote control manner: 2s
  • Multiple exposure: OFF
  • Interval timer shooting: OFF

While there are a lot of different settings here, do non worry – yous won’t be irresolute many settings very oft. Allow’s go through some of the important settings. The first ane is “Role played past card in Slot two”, which allows you to choose what you want to do with the dual card slots of your camera. If you shoot with multiple cards, you can set the camera to salvage images in three different ways. Y’all tin ready it to “Overflow”, which basically saves images to the first card, then when the space runs out, the photographic camera starts saving to the 2nd card. I usually set mine to Overflow, unless I am working on something really important and need to backup images. And speaking of backup/back-up, that’s what you use the second setting “Backup” for. In one case selected, the photographic camera will save photos to both memory cards at the same time. The last setting allows you to save RAW files to one bill of fare and JPEG files to another. For your day to day shooting, only leave it on “Overflow” and if you actually need to make sure that your photos are non lost if one of the cards fails, and so choose “Backup”.

“Image quality” is manifestly ready to RAW, since I but shoot RAW. “NEF (RAW) recording” is always set on mine to 14-bit Lossless compressed. I want the all-time paradigm quality the camera tin provide. “White Balance” is Auto and all other settings like Picture Controls, Active D-Lighting, HDR, etc. are turned off, since none of them (with the exception of “Long Exposure NR”) bear on RAW images. Remember, RAW files contain non-manipulated data and crave postal service-processing, so the higher up settings just impact ii things: images displayed by your photographic camera’s LCD screen (each RAW file contains a full-size JPEG image, which is what is used to display images) and if yous use Nikon’due south proprietary software like Capture NX, those settings can be applied to RAW images automatically. Since I apply Lightroom to shop and process my images, the second office does not use to me. And I besides do not intendance much nearly how images are displayed on the camera’s LCD, so I leave everything turned off.

Although color space does non matter for RAW files, I at present use AdobeRGB considering information technology gives a slightly more accurate histogram to decide the correct exposure (since the photographic camera shows histogram based on camera-rendered JPEG image, fifty-fifty if you shoot exclusively in RAW).

The large menu setting that I frequently alter is “ISO sensitivity settings”. Most of the time, I use Auto ISO, because it is a great feature that saves me a lot of time. Instead of specifying ISO for every shot, I but have it set on Automobile, with its base of operations ISO ready to 100, Maximum sensitivity gear up to 3200 (my personal limit for “acceptable” noise levels) and Minimum shutter speed gear up to “Motorcar”, which automatically changes the minimum shutter speed to match the focal length I am using. When using a VR lens, I might lower the “Machine” minimum shutter speed to “Slower” and if I shoot with a prime lens and want to have faster shutter speeds (say when photographing wildlife), I move the slider towards “Faster”. When photographing landscapes or compages with the camera mounted on a tripod, I turn Car ISO off and employ ISO 100 for the highest dynamic range and lowest noise levels. By the way, yous tin can easily turn Auto ISO on and off by holding the ISO button on the back of the photographic camera, then rotating the forepart dial.

Moving-picture show Shooting Carte

With the D750, Nikon introduced a new “Movie Shooting Menu” to move all movie-related settings and functions to a unmarried location. A swell change, because it was all over the place before. I personally do not shoot video, so these settings are non of import for me. If you are planning to shoot video, yous will exist able to notice everything from film ISO settings to picture controls. In addition to these settings, pressing the Live View button then the “i” button volition activate additional settings that you can change.

Custom Setting Menu

This is where a lot of people become lost, since there are so many different settings. Hither are the settings that I personally use:

  • Autofocus

    • AF-C priority selection: Release
    • AF-S priority selection: Focus
    • Focus tracking with lock-on: AF three (Normal)
    • Focus point illumination
      • Manual focus mode: ON
      • Dynamic-area AF display: ON
      • Grouping-expanse AF illumination: First pick
    • AF point illumination: Auto
    • Focus point wrap-around: OFF
    • Number of focus points: AF51
    • Store points past orientation: ON
    • Built-in AF-assist illuminator: ON
  • Metering/exposure

    • ISO sensitivity pace value: 1/3
    • EV steps for exposure cntrl: 1/3
    • Ex./wink comp. stride value: 1/3
    • Piece of cake exposure bounty: OFF
    • Matrix metering: Face detection on
    • Center-weighted area: 12mm
    • Fine-melody optimal exposure: —
  • Timers/AE lock

    • Shutter-release push button AE-L: OFF
    • Standby timer: 6s
    • Cocky-timer
      • Self-timer delay: 5s
      • Number of shots: 1
      • Interval between shots: 0.5s
    • Monitor off delay: 10s, 1m, 10s, 4s, 10m
    • Remote on duration (ML-L3): 1m
  • Shooting/display

    • Beep
      • Volume: OFF
      • Pitch: Low
    • Continuous depression-speed: three fps
    • Max. continuous release: 100
    • Exposure delay mode: OFF
    • Flash warning: OFF
    • File number sequence: ON
    • Viewfinder filigree display: ON
    • Easy ISO: ON
    • Information display: Auto
    • LCD illumination: OFF
    • MB-D16 battery type: LR6
    • Bombardment order: MB-D16
  • Bracketing/wink

    • Wink sync speed: 1/250*
    • Wink shutter speed: 1/threescore
    • Flash cntrl for built-in flash: TTL
    • Exposure comp. for wink: Unabridged frame
    • Modeling flash: ON
    • Auto bracketing set: AE & flash
    • Bracketing order: Nether > MTR > over
  • Controls

    • OK button
      • Shooting mode: RESET
      • Playback mode: Zoom on/off -> 1:i (100%)
      • Live view: RESET
    • Assign Fn button: Access top item in MY MENU
    • Assign preview button: Preview
    • Assign AE-50/AF-50 button: AE-L / AF-50 button press: AE/AF lock
    • Customize command dials: All default
    • Release button to use dial: OFF
    • Slot empty release lock: LOCK
    • Reverse indicators: – 0 +
    • Assign movie record button: ISO sensitivity
    • Assign MB-D16 AE-Fifty/AF-Fifty button: AE/AF lock
    • Assign remote (WR) Fn button: OFF
  • Movie

    • Assign Fn button: OFF
    • Assign preview push button: Alphabetize mark
    • Assign AE-Fifty/AF-L button: AE/AF lock
    • Assign shutter push button: Have photos

That’s a lot of options! Once again, I won’t go into details about each setting, so permit me but go over the most of import ones that y’all should know almost. The “Autofocus” section is pretty important, because information technology controls the way your photographic camera autofocus is configured. The first 2 settings “AF-C priority selection” and “AF-S priority selection” are there to assist in shooting in Single or Continuous modes. The “Focus” setting in the “AF-S priority pick” selection forces the camera to acquire focus before taking the shot. Unlike earlier DSLRs like Nikon D700, the D750 will withal let you take a shot if you “focus and recompose” in AF-S manner.

The adjacent setting is “Focus tracking with lock-on”, which I unremarkably go on at the default setting of “3”. This setting controls how speedily your autofocus volition re-engage when it detects focus errors. When shooting birds in flight, I tend to reduce that setting to brusk delays, considering I want autofocus to re-engage even with smaller changes. The remainder of the time, I keep it in normal and almost never go up to long waits.

“Focus point illumination” will allow customizing the style the camera viewfinder illuminates focus points in different modes. I like the fact that my D750 viewfinder will really evidence if I am shooting ix-point or 51-point dynamic continuous mode by putting dots inside the viewfinder frame.

“AF point illumination” is used to calorie-free up the viewfinder focus point(s) and different grids in red color when yous half-press the shutter button. I usually keep this on “Motorcar”, which does not lite up in very bright weather where I can clearly see everything in the viewfinder, and but does it in darker environments (which helps with identifying my focus indicate location). I do not like when my focus points roll over to the other side of the screen when I am in the corners and I like to shoot with all focus points enabled, so my “Focus point wrap-around” is turned off and the number of focus points is set to 51.

A slap-up new menu option that the D750 inherited from the D810 is “Store points by orientation” (a8 in Custom Setting Bill of fare), which I now have turned on past default. I love this characteristic, because information technology remembers where my focus point was for both landscape and portrait orientation. For example, if I photograph a bride in horizontal orientation and set my focus betoken, I tin switch to portrait orientation, move my focus point and when I go dorsum and forth between the two, my focus point will be remembered for both orientations! This is a neat feature that can be very helpful when you switch between 2 dissimilar orientations in a fast-paced surroundings. When photographing the bridal party on a wedding mean solar day, I often switch between horizontal and vertical orientation, and then that I can capture the whole torso in vertical orientation. With this setting, I keep my focus points at different locations, then switching back and forth is super easy – all I have to do is refocus and shoot!

The “Built-in AF-assist illuminator” is the lamp on the front of the camera that is engaged when shooting in AF-Southward focus mode. If the subject is night, the front light will turn on and illuminate the subject yous are photographing, which will help the autofocus system to acquire proper focus. I find the light to exist helpful in low-light situations, and then I go on that setting turned on.

I never mess with any of the “Metering/exposure” settings, so I would just recommend to leave them at default values. I would also skip the whole “Timers/AE lock” sub-section.

Under “Shooting/brandish”, the outset affair I always do is turn off the focus confirmation beep. I often re-acquire focus many times and I would hate to annoy anyone with the beeps coming from my camera.

The large setting that I often rely on when photographing landscapes is “Exposure delay style”. This feature is a jewel on the latest Nikon DSLRs, because it first lifts the camera mirror (which generates a lot of vibrations), then waits a specified amount of fourth dimension and just and then opens upwards the shutter to capture the image. The squeamish thing is, you can specify up to iii seconds of delay, which can completely eliminate the dreaded “mirror slap”. When I bear my landscape photography workshops, I oft walk around the participants and check how they trigger their cameras. Those, that do not accept camera remotes (remote cablevision release) initially feel frustrated, but once they notice this neat feature, they don’t regret that they did not bring remote triggers anymore. The best part about this particular feature, is that you lot can actually use it in conjunction with the camera timer! If yous gear up the secondary dial on the tiptop of the camera to Timer, so ready the “Self-timer delay” to something like 5 seconds, you can completely eliminate camera shake. Basically, the initial 5-second timer is for the camera to settle subsequently y’all printing the shutter release. After it waits for 5 seconds, the “Exposure delay style” feature kicks in and the mirror is raised. The camera waits 3 more than seconds earlier the shutter finally opens up and the image is captured. This is a great characteristic that I highly recommend to apply when photographing landscapes and architecture in low lite weather condition / very slow shutter speeds.

If yous dislike the orangish flash icon constantly popping upwards in your viewfinder (I find it annoying), there is a place to turn it off – just set “Wink alert” to Off and you won’t run into that flash warning icon again.

The “Viewfinder filigree display” is a neat feature that creates vertical and horizontal lines inside the viewfinder. I use those grids all the time when composing my shots – they are great tools for aligning the horizon horizontally or vertically and having a amend visual look at my framing / composition.

A bang-up enhancement to the carte du jour organisation that sets the D750 apart from other Nikon DSLR cameras (D600/D610/D800/D810 and others) is the dedicated “Easy ISO” setting (d8 in Custom Setting Carte du jour). If you do not know what “Like shooting fish in a barrel ISO” does, it basically allows you to apace change ISO with the front end dial when shooting in Aperture Priority mode (past default, the forepart punch is inactive in Aperture Priority mode). On previous DSLRs, there was a setting called “ISO display and adjustments” and if you picked “Show ISO/Easy ISO”, yous could change the rear dial to adjust your ISO, but the top LCD display would no longer prove the number of remaining shots, which was an annoyance for me and the reason why I preferred not to use it. With the D750, Nikon inverse the behavior – now the Easy ISO part works like it should and the remaining shutter count is always displayed. The LCD screen on the top of the photographic camera might exist smaller, but Nikon was able to fit more numbers to the left of the remaining shots, and then it worked out fine.

I won’t go into Bracketing/flash sections, because that’south a big topic on its own. The only matter that I usually change hither is Bracketing order – I like to have my frames underexposed, normal, and then overexposed, so I set “Bracketing order” to “Under > MTR > over”.

The “Controls” department is something I always change, considering there are some time-saving features in that location. Let’due south get-go start with my favorite feature on Nikon advanced cameras that allows to zoom in to an image instantly with a printing of the OK push button in the multi-selector dial. This menu item used to be chosen “Multi selector center button”, merely Nikon has now renamed information technology to merely “OK push”. It is a huge time saver and something I really wish the Nikon D600 / D610 cameras had. Basically, you can set upward the heart OK button on the multi-selector to zoom in and out to a set magnification level when reviewing images with a single press of the button! If you notice yourself frustrated by constantly pressing the zoom in button until you become to the right magnification level, then you will absolutely love this feature. There are 3 magnification levels to choose from: “Low magnification (50%)”, “i:one (100%)” and “High magnification (200%)”. The best setting to utilize is 1:1, because information technology allows you to view images at 100% / pixel level. It saves 6 zoom in button presses!

The next important carte du jour option “Assign Fn button” allows programming the “Fn” (Role) button on the front of the photographic camera. Since I shoot in unlike environments a lot, I like to be able to modify my Auto ISO settings speedily. Unfortunately, Auto ISO is cached in the “Shooting Carte” and takes too long to get to. I honey existence able to access Auto ISO with just pressing the Fn button and that’south something you tin set upwardly very easily. First, go to “My Carte du jour” section of the menu. And so get to “Add together items” -> “Shooting carte”. Notice “ISO sensitivity settings” and instead of getting into this bill of fare, simply press the “OK” push. The next screen should say “Choose position” and you volition encounter “ISO sensitivity settings” in that location. But printing “OK” one more than fourth dimension and you will see this on the acme of the “My Menu” window. If yous already have some favorites saved, make sure to motility this i to the very summit. Once yous exercise this, go to the “Custom Setting Bill of fare” again and navigate to “Controls” -> “Assign Fn push”. From there, pick “Access acme particular in MY MENU” and press OK. Now test information technology out – shut the bill of fare, so printing the “Fn” button on the front end of the camera. If yous did everything right, the dorsum LCD should become y’all correct into ISO sensitivity settings! Pretty nifty and saves a lot of time when you need to tweak the Auto ISO feature!

If you don’t specially care for the depth of field “Preview” button, you can program your D750 to practice the aforementioned thing from that button instead.

Now allow’due south talk about another important menu setting, which is “Assign AE-L/AF-L push button”. If you take not read my commodity on the Focus and Recompose technique, at present is a good fourth dimension to practise information technology, because information technology explains this feature in particular. Basically, you switch the autofocus office from your shutter release (half-press) to the AE-L / AF-50 button on the back of the camera, as shown below:

Nikon D3100 AE-L AF-L Button

Once you lot practice this, your camera volition no longer autofocus past half-pressing the shutter and volition only answer to you lot depressing the rear AE-Fifty / AF-50 push button. It is a peachy feature that I e’er apply past default on all of my cameras (higher-end DSLRs have a dedicated AF-ON button), so I would recommend to explore this feature on your D750 also.

Another slap-up option that Nikon has on the D750 (which was also added to the D800 / D800E cameras with the latest firmware), is “Assign movie tape button”. I personally don’t shoot movies, so I similar modifying this button to change ISO. One time y’all do this, you no longer have to reach for the ISO push on the left of the LCD with your other hand – pressing the picture record button will let changing ISO settings, which is cracking. This works merely similar pressing the defended ISO button – rear punch changes ISO and front dial turns Auto ISO on and off. Now you lot tin change ISO while looking through the viewfinder!

Aside from these, I would leave the rest of the settings alone.

Setup Carte du jour

Not a whole lot to cover hither, because this is the area that you will but utilise for particular tasks like setting time/appointment, adding epitome comments, adjusting LCD effulgence, formatting retentivity bill of fare, etc. Once yous learn your style around the camera card system, I would highly recommend to play with the “User settings”, which allow you to relieve different settings for two dissimilar scenarios (U1 and U2). For example, I accept mine set up for two dissimilar roles – landscapes and people. When photographing landscapes, I want my camera style to be Transmission. I desire “Exposure filibuster fashion” turned on by default and set to 3 seconds. I want my Automobile ISO turned off, with ISO set to ISO 100 by default. So I set all those settings on the camera, then go to “Relieve user settings” -> “Save to U1”. For photographing people, I want my camera to be in Aperture Priority fashion, I want “Exposure delay manner” turned off, considering I will be shooting mitt-held and I want Automobile ISO turned on. I then save those settings to the “U2” slot. Once everything is fix, I can simply switch back and forth between the two using the top photographic camera PASM punch and it saves me a lot of time, since I practice non have to remember which settings I need to alter. I love this feature on the D750 and actually wish Nikon implemented the same system on high-end DSLRs like D800/D4 as well! While Nikon does have a manner to store custom settings on the D800 and the D4, you have to do it for each bill of fare item separately, which is simply inefficient. Plus, those cameras practise not have an external setting on the dial to be able to change modes speedily.

Other than the to a higher place, the only other thing I would do is set an “Paradigm comment”. Basically, information technology is only text that gets embedded into each photograph. If you always happen to lose your memory bill of fare somewhere (which I personally have in the by) and someone finds it (let’s merely presume that you lot have no labels on the card with your info) leaving your Copyright or Name could help big time in finding/locating you. Plus, you are writing data into RAW files, and then if y’all ever needed to prove that yous are the author of a photograph, the RAW file along with your contact info could make for slap-up evidence.

I hope you establish this article useful. In one case once more, these are settings that piece of work for me and they might not necessarily suit your needs. It is best that y’all explore your camera and learn about each setting as much equally you tin in social club to take advantage of all the bachelor features and customizations!